For all intents and purposes, let's assume there are three levels of makeup application: a heavy, full- face of makeup, a light, natural look, and no makeup what-so-ever. Heavy, full-faced makeup includes, but is not limited to: foundation, concealer, bronzer, blush, eyebrow enhancers, eye-shadow, eyeliner, mascara, and lipstick and/or lip gloss. This is what would be known as a "glamorous look," utilizing techniques such as contouring (the application of darker foundation or bronzer underneath the cheekbones) or strobing (the application of lighter foundation on top of the cheekbones and T zone area) to create depth and enhance bone structure. Other features of a full-faced makeup look might include dark, smokey eye-shadow, the coveted cat-eye winged eyeliner, long, luscious (perhaps false) eyelashes, and a bold, colorful lip. This type of makeup application is meant to be noticeable and admired for its trendiness and the skill required to replicate it. Makeup styles of this nature are often criticized for being deceptive; changing the way an individual's face looks, and helping "ugly" people look "pretty."
A natural makeup look, wouldn't you know, can also include, but is not limited to: foundation, concealer, bronzer, blush, eyebrow enhancers, eye-shadow, eyeliner, mascara, and lipstick and/or lip gloss. The difference between the two makeup techniques is simply the colors applied. Similar to the full-faced look, the natural look seeks to hide and manipulate blemishes and imperfections. This generally includes foundation to even out the complexion, and concealer to disguise acne, dark circles and discoloration. Both looks also utilize bronzer and blush to add a "healthy," "lively" glow to the skin, and to create shadows and the illusion of depth. This is where the differences begin to be noted. Where a full-faced eye-shadow technique employs vibrant colors and dark lines, a natural look relies on colors similar to the individual's skin tone and softer, less pronounced lines and shadows. In place of a dark, smokey eye, an individual might sweep a neutral color across their lid, and a slightly darker shade into their crease to create very subtle depth. Instead of a black, liquid lined cat-eye, an individual might gently smudge a dark brown eyeliner pencil along their top lash line. Slap on a light coat of mascara, and a neutral lipstick/gloss, and the natural look is born.
This makeup routine, much like the Boy Brow product mentioned in another post, operates under the ironic idea that a natural look can be manufactured to look better or "more natural" than a truly natural, untouched face. Makeup-less looks, while praised for being "low maintenance," are often mistaken for laziness, fatigue and illness. A natural face simply cannot exist without the individual suffering from some fundamental issue or character flaw. So a balance must be struck between a lack of makeup and looking natural to appease the masses.
Aside from that, "natural" makeup has the subtle effect of reasserting whiteness as a standard of beauty, as Dr. Lisa Wade implies. While natural makeup products are available to a diverse audience, the majority of concealers and foundations skew toward lighter skin tones. As published by WWD, "African-American women spend $7.5 billion annually on beauty products, but shell out 80 percent more money on cosmetics and twice as much on skin care products than the general market, according to the research. That difference comes as African-American women sample many more products to find the ones that are most effective on their skin." Another problem to take into consideration is Mederma and how other products like it work differently on people with varying levels of scarring and varying levels of melanin. When coupled with unequal media representation, these aspects of our society collectively say, "White is natural." Even though someone with a deeper skin tone can effect a natural makeup look, the odds of them being able to use high quality products for every feature they need covered is low and the expense is high. The implications of this socioeconomically are catastrophic given race and gender based wealth gaps. The implications of this given that most lines do not provide shades that match very well are even worse. Many have to go a shade or two lighter than their own natural skin tone, which directly indicates pigmentation bias, and it is part of what has led to an increase in skin bleaching.
Social media has exacerbated this discrepancy. Color filters and photoshopping applications often paired with websites like Facebook and Instagram act as a form of validation. When you have the ability to manipulate your appearance online, you can emphasize certain aspects of your physical self - particularly complexion and shape. Removing red-eye and blemishes has always been a common concern, but because the beauty industry has failed large populations with narrow options for them, the appeal of 'correcting' images used in networked publics is understandable. However, this poses a dilemma because applications can be used in a way that subdues, which reaffirms a move toward homogeneity - or the "average" - but the average is always lightness in some form.
Aside from that, "natural" makeup has the subtle effect of reasserting whiteness as a standard of beauty, as Dr. Lisa Wade implies. While natural makeup products are available to a diverse audience, the majority of concealers and foundations skew toward lighter skin tones. As published by WWD, "African-American women spend $7.5 billion annually on beauty products, but shell out 80 percent more money on cosmetics and twice as much on skin care products than the general market, according to the research. That difference comes as African-American women sample many more products to find the ones that are most effective on their skin." Another problem to take into consideration is Mederma and how other products like it work differently on people with varying levels of scarring and varying levels of melanin. When coupled with unequal media representation, these aspects of our society collectively say, "White is natural." Even though someone with a deeper skin tone can effect a natural makeup look, the odds of them being able to use high quality products for every feature they need covered is low and the expense is high. The implications of this socioeconomically are catastrophic given race and gender based wealth gaps. The implications of this given that most lines do not provide shades that match very well are even worse. Many have to go a shade or two lighter than their own natural skin tone, which directly indicates pigmentation bias, and it is part of what has led to an increase in skin bleaching.
Social media has exacerbated this discrepancy. Color filters and photoshopping applications often paired with websites like Facebook and Instagram act as a form of validation. When you have the ability to manipulate your appearance online, you can emphasize certain aspects of your physical self - particularly complexion and shape. Removing red-eye and blemishes has always been a common concern, but because the beauty industry has failed large populations with narrow options for them, the appeal of 'correcting' images used in networked publics is understandable. However, this poses a dilemma because applications can be used in a way that subdues, which reaffirms a move toward homogeneity - or the "average" - but the average is always lightness in some form.
Overall, this is not to vilify the natural makeup style - but there are sociological dangers associated with it which affect not only how we view ourselves, but also, how we interact with others. The idea that you could be a "truer" you - a you with makeup to not look "made up" - raises a question about authenticity. What normative ideologies are we accepting? Are we forced in certain contexts to do this, for the sake of employment or general respect? If this is the situation, then it's a zero sum game for all of us. No one should be limited to foundations that don't even blend, but no one should feel expected to wear makeup either.
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